The season for gamebirds may be over, but pigeon is still firmly on the menu, much to the delight of the family of Alliance supporter Mrs Furse, whose recipe for Moroccan pigeon pie is rather special.
In the Maghreb, pigeon pies, using filo pastry and a blend of sweetness and aromatic spices are hugely popular, often marking the beginning of a special meal. Referred to by a variety of names including Pastilla and B’stilla, these pies have a long history and can be traced back to Andalusian cookery books of the 13th century, which include the cooking of pigeon with cinnamon, almonds, saffron, onion and eggs. These recipes likely followed the Moors of Andalusia back into North Africa during the Catholic Reconquista of Spain – hence the Spanish sounding name.
With the history lesson covered, it can’t be overstated that Mrs Furse’s recipe is a superb, and surprisingly easy way to satisfy the whole family and make use of a delicious and all too abundant food resource in the British countryside – the woodpigeon. And no, the pigeons don’t have to be Moroccan for the pie to work.
Ingredients:
- 6 pigeons (plucked and drawn)
- 1 garlic clove (crushed)
- 3 shallots (2 halved, 1 finely diced)
- 2 cleaned leeks
- 2 cleaned carrots
- 2 cinnamon sticks
- 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- Glass of marsala / sweet sherry / madeira
- 7 oz butter
- 6 eggs
- Handful fresh flatleaf parsley (chopped)
- Handful fresh coriander (chopped)
- 2 oz icing sugar
- ½ tsp ground ginger
- Small pinch saffron
- 2 ½ tsp ground cinnamon
- 2 oz flaked toasted almonds
- Packet of ready-made filo pastry
- Salt and black pepper for seasoning
Method:
- It is best to carry out the stock making and reduction, as well as the marinading of the pigeon the day before, otherwise the process becomes rather long for one day.
- Start off by breasting the pigeons. The breasts should then be diced and left to marinade in the fridge in the olive oil, ground ginger, saffron and ½ tsp of the ground cinnamon.
- Use the carcases to make the stock. To do so, brown the carcasses in a greased roasting tin before transferring to a large saucepan, with the halved shallots, leeks, carrots and cinnamon sticks. Cover with water and bring to the boil. Skim off any scum and leave simmer for a few hours. Once simmered, strain the liquid into another pan, add the marsala and reduce the liquid until thick and syrup-like.
- On the day, preheat the oven to 220°C / 200°C fan / Gas Mark 7.
- Start by sealing the marinated pigeon breast, shallot and garlic in 1oz butter in a hot pan for a few minutes before setting aside to cool. Be careful not to burn the garlic.
- In a non-stick pan, gently heat 3 oz butter and start to scramble the eggs. Take off the heat whilst still pourable and mix with the fresh herbs and season to taste.
- Mix well the icing sugar, remaining ground cinnamon and toasted almond flakes.
- Melt the remaining 3oz of butter for use in assembly of the pie.
- Using a 9” tart tin, take the first sheet of filo pastry, brush it with melted butter and drape it over the tin, carefully pushing it into the corners without tearing, and so that there is overhang around the edge.
- Repeat, with the second sheet at a right angle to the first. Then repeat twice more with the sheets on the diagonals.
- Spread the pigeon mixture out in the tin and coat with half the reduced stock. Then add the scrambled eggs and the rest of the reduced stock, before topping the filling with an even layer of the sugar/cinnamon/almond mix.
- Fold the overhanging pieces of pastry back over the filling in reverse order.
- Cover this with two final sheets of brushed filo pastry, making sure at this stage that all overhanging pastry is tucked in, before a final brush with butter.
- Place in the pre-heated oven for 10 minutes.
- Remove from the oven and carefully turn out, upside down, onto a parchment-lined baking tray, before returning to the oven for a further 5-10 minutes.
- Once crisp and golden in colour on top and bottom, remove from the oven.
- Turn it the right way up and dust with icing sugar, ground cinnamon and almonds.
- Serve whilst hot.