The Game Chef: A celebration of burgers

In this article originally published in My Countryside magazine, the Game Chef tackles the humble burger, giving it a few delicious twists to bring out the gamey flavour and elevate this classic BBQ favourite to a whole new level.

We’ve all been there. Sitting with a spouse, or a group of friends in the surrounds of a decent eating house, an inspired menu before you, talking of veloutés of this and espumas of that, the unending toil the chef has been through to source some wild ingredient or other, and all you really want is something to actually sink your teeth into. 

“You know what,” you say with an apologetic resolve, as you turn the menu over and cast it to the table as if to finalise the affair, “I’m just going to have the burger.” After all, every good menu should have one. This very moment of menu bamboozlement alone is enough to warrant it, but there are on occasion the bad times that come after the good times, when the locating of a decent burger can feel like the difference between kill or cure. 

There are rules for this kind of remedial burger, and the venison burger found here will see you very well on that front, with its holy trinity of salt, fat and carbs, but there are also times that something a little more refi ned and fun can work, such as the pheasant or rabbit burger. It’s that time of year when we are all probably complaining about lack of freezer space for the last-minute rosé chilling, and spicing and mincing up those freezer-bagged odds and sods still lingering from the season is a perfect way of using them up. I always like to add a little minced fat pork to the lean game meat, helping to improve the texture and keep the burgers juicy.

TRUFFLED PHEASANT BURGER WITH REMOULADE 

A decadent affair taking the burger to new levels, this is heavenly eaten al fresco on a warm day. You may not think to have a glass of fine white burgundy in hand whilst eating a burger, but now is your time! 

Serves 4 

For the burgers: 

• 600g minced pheasant 
• 200g minced pork belly 
• 100g minced streaky bacon 
• 1 tbsp decent truffle paste 
• 1.5 tsp salt 
• 1 tsp black pepper

For the remoulade: 

• Half a celeriac, grated 
• 200ml mayonnaise 
• 1 tsp good truffle oil 
• Pinch of black pepper 
• 1 tbsp whole grain mustard 

To serve: 

• 16 slices streaky bacon
• 12 cornichons 
• A handful of rocket leaves 
• 4 ciabatta rolls

Method:

1. Thoroughly mix the ingredients for the burgers all together and form into four patties, set aside. 
2. Mix the ingredients for the remoulade together well. 
3. Chop the cornichons in half lengthways. 
4. Cook the burgers gently on the BBQ or in a frying pan for around 6-8 minutes each side, until the meat is cooked through. 
5. Lightly toast the buns and fry the bacon whilst the burgers are cooking. 
6. To assemble the burgers, put a little remoulade on the bun base and add a few rocket leaves, then top with the burger and the bacon. Place a good nest of remoulade on top of the burger and then finish with the cornichons, then the burger bun top.
   
   

SMASHED VENISON BURGER WITH TALEGGIO AND DILL PICKLES 

The whole point of a smashed burger is to get as much Maillard reaction (that caramelising of meat sugars that occurs when browning) as possible, whilst still retaining a lightly pink and juicy centre. Traditionally made with pure meat, I find the addition of the other ingredients aids the caramelisation in time for the meat to stay pink, along with bringing a little extra flavour. Ensure you get your pan good and hot, and work quickly to get the best results. Possibly the ‘dirtiest’ burger I have ever made, and certainly the messiest one to eat, I like to use a good strong cheese like taleggio to match up to the rich venison, with some fresh and crunchy dill pickles to cut through – ready your napkin! 

For the burgers: 

• 1kg excellent quality venison mince 
• 1.5 tsp salt 
• 1 tsp black pepper 
• 2 tbsp English mustard 
• 1 tbsp ketchup 

For the burger sauce: 

• 150ml mayonnaise 
• 2 tbsp ketchup 
• 2 tsp Worcestershire sauce 
• 1 tbsp English mustard 
• 1 tbsp sriracha sauce 
• 1 tsp smoked paprika 
• 1 tbsp pickle juice 

For the dill pickles: 

• Half a cucumber very finely sliced 
• 1 tbsp finely chopped dill or wild fennel 
• 1 tbsp sugar
• 1 tsp salt 
• 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 

To serve: 

• 16 slices streaky bacon 
• 4 sourdough rolls 
• A quarter iceberg lettuce finely sliced 
• A knob of butter 
• A burger press, or flat pan lid 
• 8 thin slices of taleggio cheese 

Method:

1. Mix the venison well with the other ingredients, form into eight large meatballs and set aside. 
2. For the pickles, mix the cucumber well with the salt and sugar and set aside for half an hour in a non-metallic bowl. Pour off half the juices that will have leaked from the cucumber and reserve for the burger sauce. 
3. Add the vinegar and dill and mix well. 
4. For the burger sauce, simply mix all the ingredients together well. 
5. Fry the bacon until crisp and set aside in a warm place. 
6. Heat a large and heavy pan to a high heat and add the butter. 
7. When the butter is foaming add a couple of the meatballs and then immediately press down hard with your press so as the meat spreads out into a thin patty. Dip the press in a little water first to help it adhere to the meat. 
8. After one minute, turn the burger over and fry for one more minute, then set aside in a warm place to rest whilst you toast the bun in a grill or on the BBQ and melt the cheese in a small pan. 
9. To assemble, spread the bottom half of the bun with some burger sauce, then top with a little lettuce. 
10. Place one burger on top, spoon over some molten cheese, add a slice of bacon, then a little burger sauce on top of that and then some dill pickles. 
11. Repeat this process, then top with the lid of the bun. Serve immediately, with plenty of napkins and a cold beer!
    
    

RABBIT SALTIMBOCCA BURGERS, PICKLED CARROTS AND WILD FENNEL AIOLI 

This is a deliciously aromatic burger, full of herbs and with a distinctly Italian leaning. The little meat patties are wrapped in a parcel of Parmesan, sage and pancetta before cooking. Wild fennel grows in abundance around the farm here in Somerset, but dill would make a fair substitute. 

Serves 4 

For the burgers: 

• 600g minced rabbit
• 200g minced fatty pork 
• Small handful of wild fennel leaves, finely chopped 
• 1 tbsp English mustard 
• Zest of one lemon
• 1 tsp each of salt and pepper 
• 16 thin slices of pancetta 
• 80g Parmesan, finely grated 
• 8 sage leaves 

To serve: 

• Salt and black pepper 
• 4 ciabatta rolls 
• A handful of wild rocket leaves 

For the aioli: 

• 50ml good extra virgin olive oil 
• 150ml mayonnaise 
• 1 garlic clove, crushed to a puree 
• A large handful of wild fennel leaves, finely chopped 
• 1 tbsp English mustard 
• Zest of 2 lemons 
• Juice of 1 lemon 

For the quick pickled carrots: 

• 2 carrots 
• 1 tbsp sugar 
• 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 
• 1 tsp salt 

Method:

1. For the burger, mix all of the ingredients together except for the Parmesan, sage and pancetta. 
2. Form the meat into four burgers. 
3. Lay four slices of pancetta on a board, sprinkle well with a quarter of the Parmesan, and lay the sage leaves on top. 
4. Place the burger onto the sage leaves then wrap the pancetta around the sides to join in the middle. 
5. Repeat this process with the other meat patties, then set aside. 
6. For the aioli, simply mix all the ingredients together well. 
7. For the pickled carrots, shave the carrots with a peeler, sprinkle the shavings with the salt and sugar and set aside for 30 minutes. Add the vinegar and set aside once more. 
8. Cook the burgers gently in a pan or BBQ for 6-8 minutes each side. 
9. Toast the buns in a toaster, grill or on the BBQ whilst you do this. 
10. To assemble, put a good dollop of the aioli on top of the bun base, then top with a few rocket leaves. 
11. Place the burger on top, then add another spoonful of the aioli, topping with the pickled carrot. 
12. Place the bun lid on top, pour yourself a large glass of decent Sangiovese and transport yourself, albeit vicariously, to Tuscany!

Image credit: Glenn Dearing